TM-Nascar.com

In my case :
4. Analogic gamepad

Turn / direction : analogic
Boost / brake : buttons

I use the same basic pad layout below in all games. Simulators have gear change as well so I use the buttons above the triggers for that and another for handbrake. If a game offers brake bias adjustment I map that into the controller too.

Xbox 360 wireless pad: analog everything - steering with left stick (with a domed PS style stick cover with dimpled grip), brakes and throttle on triggers. Not a great setup for speed drift in TMUF and Maniaplanet but works for most other things just fine.

I broke too many membrane keyboards, the domes wore out. I may get a Logitech mechanical one at some point, their Romer G switches are nice, I'm not keen on Cherry red switches.

NVIDIA's latest GeForce driver offers a new NULL setting for G-Sync and G-Sync compatible displays that claims to reduce latency between player input and on screen response massively while offering tear free gaming still.

It's kind of hard to explain so probably better to read about it for yourself here, the news release also gives details about how to enable the new setting:

https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/geforce/news/geforce-gtx-16-series-super-ga...

I'm trying it out with different games to see if I can spot any difference. MP looks the same to me, I might need to try something more demanding

I use keyboard and regularly buy new ones xd

Classic xbox 360 pad or 360 one.
Analogic for steering and buttons for brake/boost.

Interesting! Thx for your answers
So I think we have a cocktail about hardware used... keyboards, pads, analogic/buttons...

I have already tried the analogic stick to boost/brake, may be it has a better control of speed ? But when I see your levels on driving, every peripherals we are using look like ok to gain some .001s on a lap

So let's continue on the way we are comfortable

@Anti, yes I think AMD has his Freesync tool too. I'll try to think about that when finding new hardware next time It can be interesting to gain some FPS and optimising tearing without asking more to the videocard Nice technologies

NULL is not about increasing FPS but reducing lag from keyboard/controller to screen action. I'm not sure why NVIDIA thought it necessary but my impression is that maybe it's more for 4K resolution 60 Hz panels where latency may be an issue due to the lower refresh rate or Freesync panels that don't have the G-Sync module? There's no discernible difference with my hardware at any rate.

Haaa ok thx! I had mix everything

I ended up getting Cherry MX Red in a 1st gen Corsair K70 Rapidfire with red backlight, it took a bit of getting used to because it is stupidly quick. There's a switch on it to adjust between 1 msec, 2 msec, 4 msec and 8 msec polling rate (key repeat). 1 msec is great for FPS.

The new K70 Rapidfire has RGB backlight. On both the lighting is per key, so far there's no wearing of keycaps on mine. That's actually what put me off the Logitech in the end, so many review pictures with keys that were destroyed after a few months. The backlit keys are spray painted black with the characters masked off during spraying.

I'm not keen on the iCue software, I played around with the lighting effects just to see what the KB can do but I have it static now on the low brightness setting

I'd love to get a keyboard with MX Red but they were so damn expensive during the days.

My first mechanical was a Cherry G80 3000 LSCDE-2 with blue switches but that thing had 2-Key-Rollover for whatever reason.
Then switched to a noname chinese knockoff MX Blue when the patent ran out(?). Suddenly they were a lot cheaper but cheap MX Reds were nowhere in sight.

But I still play TM with my good ol' Logitech F310, which is probably already the 4th one because I go through a controller usually in ~2 years.

I got my K70 Rapidfire half price because it was end of line otherwise I wouldn't have bothered because yeah stupid money still for a new one full price.

I'm on my third Xbox controller too since starting to use it for TM, the A button is getting dodgy already on my current one after a year. Usually it's the analog stuff that breaks beyond the bounds of recalibration on Microsoft pads though. I have accelerate mapped to B as well fortunately

Good to know that I'm not alone then

I forgot to say that I play on DPad rather than Analog although I'm using a pad.
Analog certainly has an advantage over DPad if you know how to drive it but my fingers work much better without Analog (too twitchy).

I've been looking into controllers that support mechanical switches for the buttons but sadly every design seems to rely on these stupid rubber springs with contacts on the bottom which eventually just wear out...

I'm trying since some races the DPad instead of analogic (no no no, that's not the main cause of my new high speed !!!), and may be it's fastest to switch right/left/right/left when needed...
Analogic needs more sporty movement may be...

I find the d-pad too twitchy but whatever works for you is great

new peripherals every year from [insert generic retailer] if yours has an electricals dept. Many benefits.
Gaming-appelated products are shinier, true

Mid

I used to get cheap Microsoft or Logitech keyboards but the recent ones wear out within months.

Cherry DC2000 keyboards are worth a look if you are sticking with reasonably cheap membrane models, they have large keys and are very comfy to type on. The characters are also laser etched so shouldn't rub off like the Microsoft and Logitech ones do.

Interesting ! 25€ here for this pack. May be the mouse isn't needed in my case... or it will be ok for the computer at work, with his sad mouse
And it will be better than my no-name keyboard, with the black paint dying slowly...

ps : ouch, sadly there's no "backlight?", I love it on red when there's low light on the bedroom ! Usually this is not so cheap to have this feature

Minos if you haven't tried a mechanical keyboard before I'd highly suggest that you do so. Go to an electronics retailer near you and look for mechanical ones and try them out.

It is not even comparable to membrane keyboards. If you're unhappy with the clicky sound, there are many different variations with no click, low noise, low actuation etc...

There are a lot of cheap mechanical ones (sadly mostly with blue clicky switches) on amazon or ebay.

If you need a cheapo keyboard, then I wouldn't pay more than a few euros for one. They'll do the job just fine as a 20-30€ membrane one.

This could be an interesting handheld in future iterations, I am yet to try Steam versions of Maniaplanet games from Linux but I know TMNF/TMUF work fine with Proton.

You can see it has taken queues from Sony PSP and also Nintendo Switch to a certain extent. The touchpads on either side are interesting but what kind of ruins it is the low resolution screen. It's 720p and if the device has supposedly high end gaming laptop components in then it's more than capable of supporting a 1080p screen instead. The option of plugging in an external monitor kind of negates the point of having a handheld console.

That's why I wouldn't really be interested in the first generation. If it takes off and Valve do a 2nd generation with a better screen and customisable modular control positions I'd be more interested.

Going back to keyboards, you can always get dampeners for mechanical keyboards if you find them too loud. The tiny actuation distance on my rapidfire would certainly allow for dampeners to be fitted without affecting the keystroke speed. Whether you can be bothered fitting that many o-rings is another matter though. I can put up with the noise...

Logitech G910 is not overly clicky. I use for long MMO sessions.

I've put a silicon skin on the controller and a couple of thumb grips that came with it today. It does make a big difference to the feel of the controller and thumb sticks, so took a few hours to get used to.

The cover makes it a nicer size to hold and offers much better grip than the controller's plastic and those thumb stick covers are surprisingly grippy too but were fiddly to fit. You have to turn them inside out and then push them over the thumb sticks but it's easier said than done.

They are better than the orb grips I tried previously. The orb ones were too loose and resembled the original Xbox 360 thumb controllers with a smooth surface and 4 bumps on each compass point. These are very tight and have a tyre tread like pattern on them.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08VGDT64L?ref_=pe_27063361_487360311_302_E_...

maybe that kit would overcome my problem with size *nudge nudge

Mid

and it's ribbed *nudge nudge

I used it for 2-3 years. Since I changed twice pad but not the grip
I really like it.

It exists bigger model if necessary

https://www.amazon.fr/YoRHa-Professionnelles-Poign%C3%A9es-Capuchon-Mane...

Thinking about it...........
All we need for Nascar
Right/Left, boost button, horn button

I tried playing with my usb speedlink competition pro joystick once for a laugh. It didn't go well

Mine is transparent instead of black -
https://www.speedlink.com/en/COMPETITION-PRO-EXTRA-USB-Joystick-black-re...